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16
All Metal 1/6 King Tiger Build

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After completing my 1/6th scale M26 Pershing I decided to build something German in the same scale. Since I was on a heavy tank streak I decided that my next build would be a 1/6th scale King Tiger. For the build’s base kit I used the 1/6th scale fully radio controlled kit from Armortek.

Armortek
Armortek is a UK model company that focuses on 1/6th scale all metal R/C WWII tank models. What makes their models unique is that they are all crafted out of scale thickness aluminum plate. This model in particular was going to weigh about 500lbs when fully assembled. Their kits are computer designed, with hull components laser cut, and they come ready to assemble like a large erector set. All other components are fabricated from both CNCed (i.e. computer controlled machined) and cast aluminum.

I have built two of their models in the past (an early Tiger I and their early M4A3) so had previous experience with working with these kits. Working in this media is different from working on my other modeling projects. The assembly is all put together using bolts and fasteners, rather than adhesives as on standard scale plastic models. The kit supplies all of the components to assemble a very simple and basic model out of the box, so details are rather limited, leaving room for improvement.

building it
I wanted to place as much functional and non-functional detail on the model as possible. For reference I used images of preserved vehicles obtained from the internet, several 1/35th scale model kits from various manufacturers, and some books on the King Tiger that were in my collection. I also referred to walk around images of the Aberdeen Proving Ground Jagdtiger that I took while visiting the museum back in 2008.

During construction all of the panels are joined together using counter sunk Allen screws; I sealed these over and sanded them flush to the body work. On the tank’s hull side plates I added torch cut lines, engraving them into the aluminum using a Dremel power tool and cutting disc, and weld bead details were sculpted with epoxy. For the tank’s suspension and drive train I mostly stuck with the kit supplied components, because such a very good job has been done with the layout and details, only slight enhancements being made to the tank’s bump stops, hubcaps, road wheels, and sprockets. Basic kit supplied details were either modified to make them more accurate, or were replaced entirely with items that I fabricated from various metals, plastics and resin.

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About the Author

About John (armourguy)
FROM: PENNSYLVANIA, UNITED STATES


Comments

Thanks guys, The project was an interesting one. listed below is the full build WIP forum post that I posted on armorama while I was building the model. There you will find all of the images and blow by blow descriptions during the duration of the build. LINK In addition to the video that was posted above I have all of my other videos up on youtube for this model including test drives and function tests. LINK LINK LINK LINK LINK LINK LINK LINK Also more images of the model can be found on my website. LINK With this article out of the way I have started on my next article and I should have it ready and submitted very soon. Thanks again everyone.
JAN 29, 2012 - 09:36 AM
"BAD TO THE BONE" It just doesn't get any better than this, way over the top! Outstanding craftsmanship, John. ~ Eddy
JAN 29, 2012 - 03:20 PM
Hard to put into words TOP NOTCH love it. Is the Swimmerwagon romote control too ? Also liked the 1/35 KT Octorpus camo Great Stuff.
FEB 03, 2012 - 01:54 PM
The schwimmwagen is the static DML plastic kit. The Tamiya 1/35 KT in the motor image is an older model my father built back in the mid 90's.
FEB 04, 2012 - 10:19 PM
Just, WOW! You should display your models @ AMPS gatherings and otherwise so folks can see them in person.
MAR 12, 2012 - 06:24 PM
All you can say is Awesome
MAR 12, 2012 - 07:06 PM
I would love to attend an AMPS show with one of my 1/6th scale models, but for me all of the AMPS shows are too far away from me to attend.. Hopefully an AMPS show will be held in North east PA one day. For shows the only model show that is my range is NJIPMS mosquitocon, but This model is far too heavy to get into my car.
MAR 25, 2012 - 09:05 AM
A truly great build! You've obviously done your homework (I like the fact you use lead oxide primer rather than Chocolate Brown). But if you don't mind, I think you could make some small improvements. 1. The third platoon of schwere SS-Panzerabteilung 501 used blue turret numbers framed in white. You can (but don't have to) put the Leibstandarte insignia on the right front glacis near the top and the letter G more or less below the hull m. g. structure. 2. The only mistake you made is, I'm afraid, a bad one: as far as I know the Germans (and everybody else) NEVER used primer on their tracks. Since German tracks had a high manganese content, they ought to be have a dark brown tint, at least in areas that did not come into contact with paved roads.
OCT 18, 2012 - 06:55 AM
One other very small detail: in point of historical fact, late war King Tigers never mounted an antiaircraft m. g. because of a severe shortage of those weapons. But I can see why you want to add one for artistic reasons, and you did a great job, especially the ammo gurtsack. But I think you ought to remove the folded bipod, tank m. g.'s never had them mounted (at most they would keep a bipod socked away in case the crew had to bail out and defend themselves on a battlefield).
OCT 18, 2012 - 07:11 AM
Thanks Dana, I appreciate all the tips. As for the number and markings My model is not based on a real vehicle, or a real unit, and the number is fictional. I used the number 366 because the model is my third armortek tank and the 66 was my models production number. As for the tracks the primer grey color that you see in the construction images was the raw color that the tracks came as from the company. The metal track link castings have a grey oxide finish to them and was not painted in the construction images. I did paint the links with another darker color primer towards the end of the build (not photographed). The darker color that I used was only used as a base for the weathering, and the primer color that I did use is not very visible, And As for the Mg your info is correct, but as I stated in the post I like the way the 34 looks bipod and all.
OCT 18, 2012 - 08:44 AM
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